Archive for August, 2008


23.07/15.08.2008 SVALBARD ADVENTURE

ENGLISH
I just came back Saturday from a three weeks sailing boat cruise in Svalbard (an arctic archipelago North of Norway).
It has been a wonderful trip, the best ever in my last ten years of exploration of the Arctic. An abundance of seals, walrus, polar bears and arctic foxes among wonderful glaciers and mountain peaks have made our trip unforgettable.
In the past I have travelled these remote regions on 24’000 horse powered Russian Icebreakers.
I have to admit that I am deeply impressed by “Arctica”, our 15 meters steel sailing boat, which with only 130 horse power, was even able to cruise in 8/10 pack ice!
The approach to the land and wildlife on such a small boat it is intimate and give access to landing spot otherwise impossible to reach.
This year was a really tough year as far as ice conditions and we are proud to have been the only sailing boat (so far) to have circumnavigated Spitzbergen!
I would like to thank Heinrich, our skipper, for sharing his knowledge of the region and also for his patience and flexibility!

ITALIANO

Sono appena rientrata sabato da una crociera in barca a vela di tre settimane alle Svalbard (un arcipelago artico a Nord della Norvegia).
E’ stato un viaggio semplicemente magnifico, il migliore in 10 anni di esplorazione delle regioni artiche. L’abbondanza di foche, trichechi, orsi bianchi e volpi artiche tra ghiacciai e vette innevate ha fatto del nostro viaggio un’esperienza indimenticabile.
In passato ho visitato queste regioni remote su dei potentissimi rompighiacci russi dalla potenza di 24′000 cavalli.
Devo ammettere che sono profondamente impressionata da “Artica” la nostra barca a vela che, con i suoi 130 cavalli, è stata persino capace di districarsi in 8/10 di copertura di mare ghiacciato!
In una barca tanto piccola l’approccio alla natura ed agli animali è un’esperienza molto più intima e dà l’accesso a luoghi altrimenti inaccessibili.
Quest’anno le condizioni di ghiaccio erano particolarmente difficili. Siamo orgogliosi di poter dire che, per ora, siamo la sola barca a vela che è riuscita a circumnavigare Spitzbergen.
Vorrei ringraziare calorosamente Heinrich, il nostro skipper, per la sua pazienza e flessibilità e per aver condiviso generosamente con noi la sue conoscenze.

 

 

23.07/15.08.2008 SVALBARD ADVENTURE

Our team meet up in Oslo airport.

My sister Fabiola,  partner David, friend Po Lin, Paul and I are all looking forward to board “Arctica”, a 15m long sailing boat that is waiting for us in Longyearbyen.

The views of the mountain peaks of Spitzbergen while approaching Longyearbyen are breath taking.

 


 

24.07.2008 SVALBARD ADVENTURE

00.30 we land in Longyearbyen – the midnight sun is welcoming us

Too excited to go to bed David and I go for a walk in town. 

16.00 we meet Heinrich our skipper – we discuss the itinerary and the actual weather and ice conditions and then we go for the big food provisions.

 

 

20.00 we finally meet “Arctica” our home for the next three weeks and load the provisions.

 

 

25.07.2008 SVALBARD ADVENTURE

Noon position 78.13.44 15.36.13

10.00 we start loading “Arctica” with our gear

14.00 last shopping and pizza

19.00 departure. We are heading south to Hornsund Fjord. Twenty hours of navigation are awaiting us and we organize 1.5 hours night shifts.

 

 

 

26.06.2008 SVALBARD ADVENTURE

Noon position 77.00.17 15.11.50

We arrive early afternoon at Hans Glacier and we enjoy the wonderful views of the calving ice.

 

 

We reposition “Arctica” at Burger Bay where we anchor and take off on a zodiac cruise.

Wonderful blue icebergs are in the bay and we soon spot our first two bears, mother with cub.

They are scared of our presence and they run into the water swimming away from us.

 

 

27.07.2008 SVALBARD ADVENTURE

Noon position 77.01.25 15.54.37

Mid morning we go for a zodiac cruise and immediately spot another bear swimming.

 

 

This one seems to be very relaxed and we follow him along the shore. He is eating vegetation and eggs on the cliffs and doesn’t seem interested in us at all.

 

 

We continue our cruise along the Paier Glacier looking for seals but without any luck!

The fog is becoming thicker and thicker and mid afternoon we leave for Tusen Islands.

Another 20 hours of navigation with night shifts.

 

 

 

28.07.2008 SVALBARD ADVENTURE

Noon position 76.56.37 21.33.59

During the morning we reach the first ice. “Arctica” is really a great boat!

 

 

We arrive in the afternoon and anchor at Tighdomane Island. We are looking for walrus.

In the past the beach was crowded but we don’t see anything but fog.

We land on a beach covered by walrus and whales bones. Very moody ambience with fog and a light rain.

We decide to scout the area for walrus and we finally find a beach with a small group.

We reposition “Arctica”.

29.07.2008 SVALBARD ADVENTURE

Noon position 76.58.49 22.04.17

Wake up at 4.30.the sun is shining and the walrus are waiting for us on the beach

We spend the next 5 hours with them having a great time!

At a first glance they might seem ugly creatures but in fact they are pretty sweet animals.

Each one is totally different from the other in shape and skin colour. Some more pinkish some more brownish. They have an extremely small head compared to the huge body and very bright little eyes.

 

 

 

CLICK_here for Quick Time walrus movie

video by David McEown /www.artistjourneys.com

 

In the afternoon we land to visit a Science Institute Polar hut. We are rushed back to “Arctica” because a huge front of ice is dangerously getting too close. Too late, Arctica is trapped with her anchor under a grounded iceberg.

 

 

Heinrich dives with his equipment but the only way to get free is by waiting the high tide and the change of current.

 

 

While waiting we go for a zodiac cruise among spectacular iceberg and nice evening light.

 

 

 

After a couple of hours we are free again. We sail towards Halvmane Island and on the way we photograph walruses and bearded seal on ice floes.

 

 

 

30.07.2008 SVALBARD ADVENTURE

Noon position 77.16.50 23.07.18

It is about 01.00am when a very confident young polar bear approach the boat swimming.

 

 

 

CLICK_here for Quick Time swimming bear_movie

video by David McEown / www.artistjourneys.com

 

He is very curious and he stays with us for an hour performing like a star.

In and out of the water he shows his best. Swimming towards us almost touching the boat, climbing on an ice floe and standing on his two paws, sniffing us and finally just laying and looking at us. I’ve never ever seen such a relaxed behaviour. Really hard to believe! A really incredible experience. We are soooo lucky!

 

 

 

Still excited we go to bed at 3.30am

Around 3.00pm we disembark on Halvmane Island and we visit the hut of the famous trapper Henry Rudy (1935) who killed 600/700 polar bears during his career.

The view is really depressing,. All around the hut the remains of the many bears killed.

 

 

In the evening after dinner we visit a Russian settlement of the 1700’s south of Delish Island.

A wonderful walrus is welcoming us on the beach and the evening light and wonderful mountain landscape in the background is perfect.

 

 

We then visit another trapper’s hut at Andree peninsula.

Again walrus on the beach and a young group of them playing in the water.

 

 

We continue scouting the area on the zodiac till 4am…

 

 

WHAT A DAY! Time for a nice sleep… in 24 hours we’ve only had a couple of hours sleep!

31.07.2008 SVALBARD ADVENTURE

Noon position 77.24.52 21.50.17

On the way to Disko bay we pass the wonderful Kvalypnten waterfalls and we visit another Russian settlement in Habenich bay.

We also encounter many walrus on ice floes.

 

 

 

“Arctica” is struggling through some heavy ice.

 

 

We arrive at our destination around 11pm but the light is not good so after a nice dinner we all go to sleep. We are still tired from yesterday’s excitement!